Slide the driveshaft into place against the rear diff and tighten the bolts using the same method as when you removed them.
The KA clutch slave cylinder bolts right up to the SR transmission so thankfully there’s no modifications needed here.
Most of you will omit this step since you wont be installing the A/C compressor. However, if you are using A/C then install it and connect the lines now.
The heater hoses from the KA are a tad long to fit onto the SR so you’ll have to trim them a bit.
And just like that the hoses fit like a glove onto the SR’s heater lines.
Hook up the fuel lines as shown in the image. The feed line is on the inside and the return line is furthest from the engine.
If you haven’t purchased a Wiring Specialties wiring harness then you’ll quickly notice that the SR’s engine harness doesn’t fit very well onto the engine. That’s because it was meant for a RHD vehicle and would normally run into the engine bay from the left hand side. To fix this, you’ll have to strip some of the plastic tubing covering the wires and re-tape it. There will be some excess wires so just fold them over and wrap tape them into the harness.
The wiring to the MAF is also too short, so it will have to be extended. Use some good quality wire for this job and make sure you properly solder the joints because poor electrical connections here can throw off the MAF signal.
The power steering line is plug-and-play with the SR pump. If your 240SX is an ’89 or ’90 model year then you’ll need to source ’91-’98 DOHC power steering lines to bolt onto the SR pump.
The throttle cable fits onto the SR throttle body just fine but the SR’s mounting bracket is too big and the cable hangs loose.
Not a problem, grab some washers and grind a groove into them.
Just like this…
And then slide them onto the cable and tighten. No more loose throttle cable.
Thank you for this!It was very helpful and this definitely encourages more people to try doing their own swap
Anytime! Glad you liked it. And the swap really is easy to do at home. Much easier than an LS that’s for sure 🙂
You are using the wrong fluids.
“Synchromax is recommended for manual transmissions that specify an automatic transmission fluid.” Nissan calls for 75w90 GL4. ATF is very thin and will wear your transmission early.
The power steering system uses ATF for fluid. Power Steering fluid is much thinner and will leak past the seals and cause the pump to run hot and fail early.
What a well documented and written guide, excellent work and very very useful for folk feeling tentative about doing their own swap.. I’m with you on wiring harness nightmares, just not worth it struggling.. just buy the pre-made ones.. 🙂
Great guide. What is that box on the intercooler pipe for?
what about the ECU? What did you use? and is the SR ECU a direct swap to the chassis harness? What harness should I buy from wiring specialties? Thanks the guide is very detailed
This write up was a godsend. Thank you so much. This proved to be a useful resource more than 5 years after it was published. Learned so much doing this swap and could not have done it without this guide. Thanks again!