I used the stock side mount setup from the SR (we’ll go to a front mount later) and it bolts onto the chassis without any custom modifications.
As you can see the piping and SMIC mount up into the drivers fender well.
It’s a wise decision to run the intercooler shroud so it will force air through the IC. I had to trim it a bit so it would fit the Kouki bumper since it came off a Zenki.
The hot side intercooler pipe fits just like it did on the JDM Silvia chassis.
Miraculously, the BOV and piping fit behind the bulky full size battery and there were provisions on the chassis for the bolts to secure it down!
It’s up to you whether you want to run the charcoal canister or not but I installed in order to keep the car street-legal.
There are several radiator options for this swap. Buy an aftermarket unit like a Koyo or Mishimoto aluminum rad, use the KA rad (minus the fan shroud and plus custom rad hoses since the upper outlet is on the opposite side), or if you’re fortunate enough, use the OEM SR rad and shroud. The OEM mechanical fan and shroud have been proven to work extremely well under both track and street conditions so unless you really hate the look there’s no need to get rid of it. I actually prefer it over a dual electrical fan setup.
With the rad in place slide the radiator hoses on and tighten the clamps.
The stock cold side intercooler piping can be installed now since it runs over the radiator setup.
Ensure that the BOV piping is hooked up to the recirculation tube and intercooler piping. Also, hook up the breather hose going to the IC pipe.
Slide the intake piping onto the turbo and tighten it up. Now you can install the MAF and an air filter of choice. I had a old Power Enterprise filter laying around so it was the quick and easy solution.
Thank you for this!It was very helpful and this definitely encourages more people to try doing their own swap
Anytime! Glad you liked it. And the swap really is easy to do at home. Much easier than an LS that’s for sure 🙂
You are using the wrong fluids.
“Synchromax is recommended for manual transmissions that specify an automatic transmission fluid.” Nissan calls for 75w90 GL4. ATF is very thin and will wear your transmission early.
The power steering system uses ATF for fluid. Power Steering fluid is much thinner and will leak past the seals and cause the pump to run hot and fail early.
What a well documented and written guide, excellent work and very very useful for folk feeling tentative about doing their own swap.. I’m with you on wiring harness nightmares, just not worth it struggling.. just buy the pre-made ones.. 🙂
Great guide. What is that box on the intercooler pipe for?
what about the ECU? What did you use? and is the SR ECU a direct swap to the chassis harness? What harness should I buy from wiring specialties? Thanks the guide is very detailed
This write up was a godsend. Thank you so much. This proved to be a useful resource more than 5 years after it was published. Learned so much doing this swap and could not have done it without this guide. Thanks again!