Nissan SR20DET Swap Guide Part 2

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Now it’s onto the front engine mounts. There’s just one nut holding the engine onto the mount. Remove that nut on each side.

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Almost there! You can throw the chains onto the engine and move the engine hoist into place.

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There are a variety of pickup points that you can hook a hoist chain onto. I chose the engine mount on the exhaust side.

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And on the opposite side the intake manifold works well, just make sure you’re not pinching or hitting any connectors or plastic sensors.

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It’s go time! Well just about. Double check and ensure that there aren’t any connectors or lines that you forgot to disconnect.

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You may need a jack underneath to guide the transmission forward so that it doesn’t tilt down too much, which will result in bent or kinked power steering lines and a difficult time getting the motor out.

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Slowly raise the engine and guide it out. Keep a close eye on the front and firewall as the engine will typically get snagged in those spots.

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Slide the KA out of the way and pat yourself on the back, you are a third of the way to having SR power!

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2 Comments on "Nissan SR20DET Swap Guide Part 2"

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entry mats
Guest

Heat shrink tubing and a heat-gun is optional, but gives the
modifications a professional touch and is less prone to potential
future problems. The first modification required is replacing the SR
dash connector with the stock KA dash connector. The SR dash connector
(white, as shown in Figure 1) will not mate with the KA dash harness,
so it needs to be replaced with the KA dash connector. Cut both the SR
& KA dash connectors, and wire the KA one to the SR harness using
the table & wiring color guide below.

Aren
Guest

Hi, so I just picked up a 240sx. I’m familiar with the cars but this will be my fist Sr swap. I’m all for buying the premade harness but if the engine is coming with the engine harness and ecu, is it still necessary to buy the premade harness or is the sr harness just plug and play into the car? Thanks.

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