To mount the engine and transmission into the S-chassis will require a Sikky mount kit. It includes engine and trans mounts, modified and baffled oil pan, oil filter relocation kit, and a drive shaft. I don’t have any experience with other mount kits but the built quality and fitment of the Sikky kit is superb. I’ve had zero issues with it so I definitely recommend it for this swap. They also sell headers but since I was building a California smog legal car I was using the GM supplied manifolds.
You’ll also need to order up a set of their power steering lines which mate the S13 PS rack to the LS PS pump.
Since the S13’s master clutch cylinder isn’t designed to work with an LS clutch system, Sikky offers a conversion kit that alleviates all the headache.
To power the LS3 e-Rod engine, GM offers a complete wiring harness, drive by wire pedal, o2 sensors, and ECU. This is by far the simplest and least stressful method of mating the engine electronics to the S13 chassis. The filter and charcoal actually come with the e-Rod engine and again are only required if you want to make it smog-legal in California.
You’re also going to need an accessories package for the LS3. It comes with all the belts, pulleys, alternator, power steering pump, and AC compressor.
There are several configurations available but the Cadillac CTS-V setup is what you want as it’s the most compact and fits in the S13 with zero clearance issues.
In the fuel department, first and foremost an upgraded fuel pump should be a no brainer. Deatschwerks DW300 fuel pump with DW301 fitment kit is a drop-in solution.
There are several ways to plumb the fuel lines and regulator for the LS but I’ll get into that later. At the very least you’ll need to get yourself an aftermarket fuel pressure regulator and filter like the Fuelab units in the photo.
Earls fittings and plumbing will provide fuel supply from the regulator to the engine. You can technically get away with using rubber fuel hose for this but if you’ve got the budget spend the money on AN fittings and adequately sized diameter fuel line.
An upgraded radiator is a no brainer, there’s no way the stock KA rad is going to be able the handle the cooling demands of the big LS engine. Mishimoto offers a thicker, all aluminum race radiator and fan shrouds. I stuck with the KA application so that both the inlet and outlet were on the passenger side of the engine. This was the best configuration to mate hoses to the LS.
Finally, there’s the exhaust system. There are no bolt-on options so a custom one will need to be fabricated. Vibrant Performance has you covered for pretty much anything and everything you need to build an exhaust system. I’ll cover off what diameter piping and other parts I used exactly in the actual install story of this series.
So those are essentially the main critical parts and pieces you’ll need for the 240SX to LS swap conversion. There’s still a lot of small items that I’ll get to but I hope you know have a better idea of the parts needed and roughly the cost associated with them.
For Part 2 click here: Nissan LS V8 Swap Guide Part 2: Let’s Get Started
Here’s a quick teaser video of what you can expect from a completed V8 swap.
i wanna hear this purrrrr….
brett16139 Does this satisfy your needs?
http://youtu.be/yRXoREXr1zo
or perhaps before the exhaust was built.
http://youtu.be/kGcfEZUX3P4
how much was the total engine build cost?
One my question is can you use your heater core to with the ls motor and if so what do you have to do for in order to work.
You can use it as is. Just plumb the heater tubes to the 240’s heater core and voila! Fully functional heat.
Peters answer I believe is wrong, you will get overheating!, Im doing a S13 Silvia to LS1 conversion, the S13 heater core completely closes the flow of coolant in that hose when your heater is not in use, this is wrong for the LS motor. The LS1 needs flow all the time through that little heater pipe as it uses this same flow to gave the thermostat heating feedback, the answer is a H type junction between the 2 pipes, so in all circumstances coolant flows through those little pipes.
here is one example and explanation why you need constant flow through that little pipe, and I have tested my S13 heater core it blocks ALL flow when you switch off the heater.
https://www.lojkits.com/products/ls-swap-heater-bypass-block
What T-56 is that all the ones ive been looking at have a shorter shaft causing the shifter to be too far up in the trans tunnel
Do you have an actual full parts list with prices and web addresses?
This may help: http://speed.academy/parts-needed-cost-breakdown-ls-v8-swap-nissan-240sx-s13-s14/
Tremec T56 that tranny is from c6?
Would all of this still work for an s14 as well as in tranny wise?
Did you ever get a answer on this….I want to do the same swap just need to know will it work on the s14?
@petertarach does s14 work with swap….will trans fit…I know the erod will
I live in Cali and drive a 1995 240sx. Can I swap and LS3 Erod and pass smog etc?
Im assuming that with the quicktime bell housing that you dont have to hammer the trans tunnel?
I noticed everyone is using the eRod LS3 because it complies with smog regulations. Is that the only reason for that motor choice? If I wasn’t worried about passing smog test, would a different LS motor be better?
There are plenty of LS options, it all really depends on your budget, the more money you spent the more horsepower you’ll make out of the box. The LS3 is great because it delivers over 400HP for a very affordable price tag.
Does the trans tunnel still need hammering with the quicktime bellhousing?
No you do not need to hammer the tunnel.
can i actually get the ac working with this setup
@240SXEROD yes if install the parts of the E-rod engine package as recommended including using OEM exh manifolds cats and ecu w/all sensors, You can slap the supplied OE# sticker on and go for smog check not to referee station.
AlejandroAguilera1 The 6spd used in nontrasaxel vetts was a german ZF has nothing in common withe T56 or T6060 except for 6 forward gears.
@Eddie Plumb it like normal in fact if you go with an LSx you can;t just block off the heater outlets . It cause an air pocket and over heating So at the vary lest ;you have to loop them together run a hose connecting them.
flore549 He didn’t build the engine it’s crate motor read the article it’s in there, lazy?!…
Great write up, I noticed the starter web link part number is the wrong one. Doesn’t match the picture.
That could be the big block version, its a common thing for the photo not to match the actual product.
Did you have to replace the harmonic damper with a cts v one for it to work with cts v accessory kit
what is the part number for the quicktime bellhousing used for this swap?